The Wilson Lake Loop
The Wilson Lake Loop lies in the heart of the Slocan Valley in the West Kootenays of Southern B.C. The valley is 100 kilometres long, running from its northern point at Nakusp and on to its southern point where it meets Highway 3A near Crescent Valley. It is a narrow valley, barely five kilometres wide at its broadest plateau. The jagged glacial peaks of the Valhalla Range rise to the west and the Slocan Range of the Selkirk Mountains to the east. Highway 6 splits the valley in two running along the shores of the 45km long Slocan Lake and the Slocan River.
History
The First Nations Sinixt and Kutanax people inhabited the valley for thousands of years. Evidence of their activity can be seen in the pictographs and petroglyphs, painted and carved on the rocky cliffs on the shores of Slocan Lake.
European settlement did not occur until the 1890s when the first great silver finds attracted prospectors and miners to the valley. Almost overnight the towns of New Denver, Silverton, Nakusp, Sandon, Three Forks and Slocan City sprung up, along with two railways and a steamer line on Slocan and Kootenay Lakes.
Since the rise and fall of the mining boom in the1920s, the valley has been the locus of some of the most dramatic events in British Columbia and Canada’s history. For some the Slocan Valley has been a sanctuary, for others a prison. In 1908 thousands of Russian Doukhobors, originally fleeing Tsarist Russia’s persecution, left Saskatchewan, where they originally settled, in hopes of finding refuge in the beautiful Slocan. The Doukhobors, in an effort to establish a community based on their unique religious and cultural convictions would come up against a government that often lacked understanding and compassion. The proceeding years, for the Doukhobors, would be a turbulent mix of protests, imprisonment, and tragedy.
Then in 1942, at the height of WWII, 22,000 Japanese were forcibly removed from their homes and businesses on the coast and sent to internment camps in the interior of British Columbia. Eight thousand ended up in the Slocan Valley, where they would remain in often appalling conditions for at least two years. Some would stay but most returned to the coast only to find that their property had been expropriated and sold off by the government.
The sixties and seventies saw the Slocan Valley attract hundreds upon hundreds of a different kind of immigrant. They came from the United States of America, draft resisters, conscientious objectors, hippies, and flower children all in search of a quiet refuge, where they could live off the land in harmony.
Today the Slocan Valley remains a cultural mosaic, a vivid reflection of its colourful and sometimes troubled past. Miners and loggers live side-by-side with hippies and outdoor enthusiasts, artisans, farmers and gardeners. It is a unique place, the beauty and richness of the valley enhanced by its history and those who live there.
The Wilson Lake Loop begins six kilometres past New Denver at Roseberry. Roseberry has a large 36 site provincial campground on Wilson Creek across from Slocan Lake.
From Highway 6 on the south side of the Wilson Creek Bridge take a right onto Wilson Creek Forestry Service Road. The initial section of this gravel road is in good shape depending on recent weather. Occasionally, yellow signs on the side of the road will mark your mileage
Beaver Lake
At the 22km mark there will be a sign heralding Beaver Lake. Follow this narrow road down to a pristine lake with a small (seven unit) but idylli
c campground nestled amidst a grove of western red cedar, hemlock, and grand fir.
Beaver lake is an ll.18 hectare lake with a mean depth of only 3.9 meters. It is a great lake for a float tube fly fishing or small craft as it rarely gets too windy to fish. The fishing in Beaver Lake is very good in the spring. Fly fishing chironomid pupae is very effective for rainbows that average between 10 and 14 inches though I have caught rainbows up to 20 inches. The lake also contains a good population of kokanee, which seem to prefer a trolled willow leaf or similar tackle. In the late spring and summer months damsel and dragonfly nymphs perform well. The lake is also home to large bull trout and I have heard of fish being caught up to seven pounds.
Little Wilson Lake
Continuing north down the logging road from Beaver Lake takes you to Little Wilson Lake at kilometre 34. Little Wilson has four wilderness campsites and is about twice the size of Beaver Lake but much deeper. At the shallower, east end of Little Wilson I had great success suspending a bloodworm imitation (trimmed Red Carrey #10-12) on a full sink line just off the bottom. In the evening there is a prolific hatch of small caddis and mayflies; dry fly patterns such as a #16-CDC caddis, Tom Thumb, or Adams Irresistible worked great. Also, fishing emerger patterns such as Hare’s Ear Nymph or Prince Nymph just below the surface, is a successful approach. The largest fish I caught at Little Wilson was a 24-inch rainbow, on a blistering hot July 4th, using a dragon fly nymph on full sink line.
Wilson Lake:
Four kilometres past Little Wilson is the east end of Wilson Lake. This scenic lake is 10 kilometres long, narrow, and deep and holds large Gerrard rainbows, bull trout, and kokanee. There is a BC Forestry Service campground and boat launch at either end of the lake. The fishing is good in the spring and fall but slows in the summer months. I’ve found the best fly fishing to be at creek mouths casting a dragonfly nymph or leech pattern with intermediate sinking line but it is best to fish this lake in a boat with down riggers and planer boards in order to get to the big fish. Tackle fishermen employ Apex lures and Lyman plugs trolled anywhere from 20 to 100 feet for large Gerrards and bull trout or drag a willow leaf for kokanee.
I have not had the opportunity to fly fish this lake as completely as the others. Generally, by 10:00AM the wind whips the water into a frenzy making it difficult fishing. During this time I often head to one of the smaller, sheltered lakes. In the evening, however, the wind dies making it a wonderful time to fish Wilson’s more subdued waters.
Horseshoe and Kimbol Lakes
Driving ten kilometres to the end of Wilson Lake brings you to a three-pronged fork in the road. The right tine takes you down a steep decline to the west end of Wilson Lake and its campsites; the middle prong takes you to Horseshoe Lake, 1.5 km further.
It is a shallow, four-hectare lake, cold, and crystal clear. When first I visited this lake, in mid-June of last year, there seemed to be little sign of life - insect or otherwise. But as I trolled a searching pattern along a shoal, a 20” rainbow launched itself out of the water just to the right of my float tube. I continued searching for this fish, and while I did manage to take a number of smaller rainbows on tiny shrimp and scud patterns, I never did catch up to that one.
The road from Horseshoe Lake to Kimbol Lake can best be described as rough and at times it is close to perilous. A 4x4 is necessary and one might consider an ATV or even hiking as the best way to access this lake. Once you go four kilometres along the logging road, take a right onto a narrow side road/trail that runs through the forest following the creek to Kimbol Lake. After three kilometres the road seems to almost disappear into the creek, from here it is just over a kilometre to the lake. There are some rough campsites at the south end of the lake as well as an old cabin. Kimbol Lake is a beautiful mountain lake, well over 4000 feet elevation, so like most mountain lakes the fishing can be furious but the trout are generally in the smaller range, 8-14 inches, yet fun to catch. It also can be accessed via a 10 km hiking trail from Nakusp Hot Springs.
Box Lake
Backtracking from Kimbol Lake, return to the three-pronged fork at the end of Wilson Lake and the right fork will lead you back to Highway 6 (5km). Turning right at the highway brings you to Nakusp, a city of 2000, where you can find accommodation and all amenities. However, in order to finish the loop take a left and you will find Box Lake one kilometre away. Box Lake is a good fishing lake for brook trout and rainbow. The brookies tend to cruise in the shallow southeast end of the lake amidst the weed beds, whereas the rainbows generally favour the deeper water. Box Lake has a forest service campsite with a dock and boat launch. Chironomids in the spring will give you non-stop action, whereas trolling nymphs and leeches in summer and fall is the best tactic.
Summit Lake
Continue south on Highway 6 for 10 km and you will come to Summit Lake right next to the highway. It is a very popular lake and, without a doubt, one of the most productive lakes I have ever fished. It is stocked annually with 10 000 Premier/Pennask rainbow and despite the heavy pressure it receives, the 150-hectare lake never seems crowded.
The fishing begins in early April when a ‘fly fishing only’ restriction is in place until May 1. Chironomids always work; fishing the weed beds near the islands and on the west side of the lake, or the shallow bay by the boat launch are productive zones. Later in the summer, dragon and damsel fly nymphs work well and in the evening the lake boils with rising fish feeding on caddis and may flies. A particular highlight of the summer is the travelling sedge hatch in July; rainbow trout go ballistic feeding on these large insects as they perform their less than graceful acrobatics across the water.
Most of the fish average between 12 and 16 inches but I catch many in the 18-21 inch range, and of course there are hyperbolic rumours of 10 pounders being caught.
There are two campsites on the lake. Three Island Resorts and Campground is private and caters mainly to RVs and fifth wheels. Summit Lake Provincial Campground is a large well-maintained campground with flush toilets and running water. A great place to take the family or meet with friends.
How to Get There
Travelling east from Castlegar or west from Nelson, take Highway 3A to the junction of Highway 6. Head north up Highway 6 for 78 km, to Rosebery, where the Wilson Creek Forest Service Road begins.
If coming from the north, exit the Trans Canada Highway at Revelstoke onto Highway 23 and follow it to Shelter Bay where a ferry will take you across Upper Arrow Lake to Galena Bay then drive to the city of Nakusp where Highway 6 begins (96km). Ten km from Nakusp is the Wilson Lake FSR so that one can do the Wilson lake loop in reverse.
You can also access the valley via the historic Highway 31A from Kaslo to New Denver and visit the mining ghost towns of Sandon, Retallac, and Three Forks along the way. It is another scenic drive from Nelson up the west Shore of Kootenay Lake past Balfour and Ainsworth on to Kaslo then over the Selkirk Mountains to New Denver.
Parks Around the Wilson Lake Loop
Valhalla Provincial Park is a 49,600-hectare park on the west side of Slocan Lake. Hiking, mountaineering, fishing the mountain lakes, and wildlife viewing are popular pastimes. Many trails take you to mountain lakes or up to the New Denver glacier. There are designated backcountry campsites that offer bear proof food caches and outhouses.
The fishing can be good in Sloan Lake but difficult as it is glacier fed and over 300 meters deep. The water however is clear and cold and makes for great scuba diving. Old derailed railway cars loaded with galena ore, plummeted to the bottom of the lake in the 20’s, and now provides an historic underwater museum for divers.
Goat Range Provincial Park is located just east of the Wilson Lake loop covering 78,947-hectares. The park was established to protect the only natural spawning area of the Gerrard Trout as well as important caribou, grizzly, and mountain goat wintering area. Fishing, hiking, camping, mountaineering, biking, snowmobiling, and backcountry skiing are some activities offered in the park.
Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park is a 32,035-hectare park featuring more than 85 kilometres of hiking trails, 30 glacial fed lakes, and several glaciers spread throughout its many stunning peaks. Backcountry adventurers will also find three cabins, one picnic shelter, and several designated wilderness campsites. Hiking, fishing the many mountain lakes, and backcountry skiing are the most popular activities.
Activities and Attractions
Museums at Nakusp, New Denver, and Silverton, take you on a journey through the rich history of the Slocan Valley.
Nikkei Memorial Internment Camp in New Denver is the only existing memorial to those Japanese interred during WWII.
The mining ghost town of Sandon on Highway 31A between New Denver and Kaslo.
Kohan Garden and Hidden Garden Gallery in New Denver.
Golf courses in Slocan City, New Denver, and Nakusp.
Nakusp and Halcyon Hot Springs.
Festivals and Farmers Markets throughout the year.
Blue Jay’s Sport and Marine in Nakusp offers a wealth of fishing gear and information about the area.
